Tools Required for a Flooring Board Replacement
- Urethane Based Adhesive
- Urethane Based Adhesive Remover
- Matching Stain Pen or Stain
- Painters Tape
- Sanding Block
- Rubber Mallet
- Circular Saw
Steps to Replace a Damaged Flooring Board
Ensure bottom of circular saw does not have any rough spots or “burrs” because that may cause damage to adjacent boards. If the bottom of the circular saw is rough, attach painters tape to protect the flooring.
Set saw blade to the proper depth for the thickness of your hardwood floor. This would be ¾” for all Gaylord Hardwood Flooring products.
Cut a line ½” to 1” from the edge of the board along the entire length of the board.
Cut a line ½” to 1” from the edge of the board on the opposite side along the entire length of the board.
Cut across the center of the board on a 45 degree angle until you have reached both parallel cut lines.
*Note: These cuts will produce a large amount of saw dust. It is advisable to have someone follow along your cuts with a vacuum to capture as much saw dust as possible.
Using a hammer and chisel, remove the middle section of the board, then chisel out and remove the sections along the edges of the board.
*Note: Be very careful not to damage adjacent boards.
Remove Nails/Staples with pliers.
Cut and remove underlay to expose plywood. Vacuum the hole to ensure it is free of sawdust and debris.
Select a suitable board and cut it to the proper length to fit in the hole, keeping the end of the board with the groove.
Note: Ensure the board is from the same batch of flooring for a proper match. The piece must match in stain colour, grain, sheen, as well as the amount of variation in wood throughout the rest of the floor.
Remove the bottom of the groove at the end and along the sides of the board using a table saw.
Dry fit the board in to place by putting the tongue of the new board into the groove of the adjacent board and setting it into place to ensure the board fits.
Replicate the bevelled edges on the cut end of the board using a sanding block. When the right size bevel has been achieved, stain the newly made bevel with a matching stain pen or stain.
Apply an ample amount of urethane based adhesive to the exposed subfloor, but not too much that the adhesive comes out of the edges when compressed.
Note: Wipe off any excess urethane based adhesive immediately. If allowed to cure, it will be virtually impossible to remove.
Place the tongue of the replacement board into the exposed groove of the adjacent board and drop into place. Use a rubber mallet to tape the board into place and ensure it is flush with the adjacent boards.
Place scrap pieces of hardwood flooring across the width of the board with the finished face down, ensuring the replaced board is flush with the adjacent boards.
Add weight to the boards and leave it for 24 hours to allow the adhesive to cure.
*Note: This step is extremely important. As urethane based adhesive cures, it expands, which can push the replaced board up, causing it not to be flush with adjacent boards.
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